I needed  some new spring shirts for work.   Since I have way to much jersey knit (that I bought when a local fabric shop was going out of business), I figure this is a good way to use some of it.    Because knits are stretchy, they can be frustrating to work with.    So I played around with some tips I found on Pinterest, as well as a few ideas of my own. Below are 2 links that I found very helpful. Please visit them to learn an easy way to complete a neckline, as well as using double needles.

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3839/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits
http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2012/08/using-the-double-needle-without-the-2nd-spool-holder.html

The ” T” I chose is a simple yet girly shirt pattern from McCalls… well because I already had it… and cut out the pattern as per directions. I followed it almost to a “t”.. okay pun intended.  When I got to the neck line I followed the directions I learned from Threads Magazine (see link).  The mistake I made was to  sew up the sides of the shirt before I tackled the neckline.  Because that is what the pattern called for. I can see where it would have been much easier to add the neck binding first, then sew up the sides of the shirt,  as Threads Magazine suggested.  I should add here, that I sewed all the seams using the double needle technique from “makeit-loveit.com(see link).  The pattern calls for you to sew along    5/8 inch seam allowance, then sew again, 1/4 inch closer to edge of fabric.  Using the double needle saved time, helped control the stretchy fabric,  and made a nice  finished seam.

didn’t have 2 spools of thread, so loaded a second bobbin, like I saw on “make it love it”, which  worked great

backed the needles with dark material so you can see them better, I threaded the machine normally, just had 2 threads running through it, instead of 1.

Just remember, if you are using a double needle, adjust  which line guide you are using on the  throat plate.  Mine is labeled 3 through 6, meaning 3/8s through 6/8s with an extra long line at 5/8s as this is the most commons seam width.  I used my gauge to measure 5/8s out from the outside needle and found that it fell right on the 4/8s line.  So that is what I used as my stitch guide.  I then trimmed the seam as per the directions adding zig zag stitching along the raw edge for a serged look.

I measured 5/8s inch from outer needle, which took the edge of the material to 4/8s on my stitch guide.

The next step is the sleeves.  The pattern calls for you to sew the sides first, and then hem.  I find it a lot easier to hem first then sew the sides.   I found that using very lite fusible webbing helps stabilize the knit material as I sew.  That in combination with the double needle technique  made a nice hem. I used roll of 1/2 inch webbing,  halved because it was still too wide.

1/2 inch wide roll fusible interfacing

cut in half and placed along stitching line. you cant tell from the picture, but I pre-pressed the hem.. a very important step!

parchment paper is a great trick for keeping your iron clean

The other tip is that I sewed the hem of the sleeve with the folded edge facing down… If I didn’t do this my nice double stitch would be on the inside of my sleeve, and  there would only be “hash marks on the outside.   Again I used my gauge to measure where the edge of the hem abuts a stitch guide.  Below, you can see it was at 3/8s.

sewn with the folded side under

shows the double stich on outside, hash marks on inside

I followed the pattern to complete the sleeve, but did not like how the

material gathered at the shoulder.